This paper will consider the contested ground of food awareness in New Zealand, which has resulted in a diverse culinary field. It took over 100 years after the signing of a treaty between representatives of Queen Victoria and the collective indigenous tribes of New Zealand (The Treaty of Waitangi) in 1840, before a local food identity could be distinguished from the influences of British colonisation. Lamb, potatoes, butter and scones were the base diet of New Zealanders until after World War II; but then the influences of visiting American servicemen, returning members of the armed forces and migrants from Europe coincided with the rise of radio and television personalities, to begin a revolution in food preferences and availability. Salads, biscuits, home-grown vegetables, coffee, with subsequent cafes and wine slowly grew in popularity. But it took a further half century before the crops and food practices of indigenous and Pacific people became accepted as mainstream, even national food.

The paper will reflect on these historical developments and changes which have resulted in contemporary New Zealand cooking that is inspired by Māori influences, in which the kumāra can take its place with pride.